Bullfighting should be illegal!!!

I am in Granada but I really want to be in Morocco or Egypt or somewhere in the Middle East that isn't being occupied or blasted to bits. Granada, culturally speaking, is the closest I've come to being in an Arabic country (although I'm sure that it's a far cry from actually being in the Middle East or Morocco, etc.) and I've been swept away. I love the architecture (my goodness, the Alhambra - so wonderfully elegant), I love the music, I love Arabic script, I love the clothes, the furniture, the dancing...

Granada is such a wonderful fusion of people and cultures. There are so many Moroccans and Egyptians living here, many running tea houses or Halal kebab shops and restaurants or market style shops. I went a little crazy in said shops today and bought so many things I had to send a box back to Melbourne. I'm staying at a fantastic hostel in the Arabic quarter, so these shops are just a footstep away.

I'm hoping to catch some street bellydancing (Yes! The joy!) in an area called Sacromonte tonight, which is renowned for its 'gypsy' population. On my first day here I walked up to this area and climbed as far up the hill (a series of small mountains, really) as one could go. I'm talking dry, steep, dirt paths in full exposure to the sun (it's been reaching high forties here in the south of Spain recently - I'm actually really loving it!), cacti growing wild, not a single person in sight. Just lots and lots of caves hand dug out of the mountain, furnished with old car seats, mattresses, half burnt sofas.... It's the cave dwellers who treat people to bellydancing performances in town. Being up there was really one of the highlights of my trip. I couldn't believe I was in Europe and Western Europe at that! I didn't encounter any people whilst up there but I did run into a mule. What is this funny creature? I thought to myself. Not quite donkey, not quite horse...my goodness, I thik it's a mule. End of the line.

I also encountered a couple of horses and two dogs who were unfortunately not of the man's best friend variety - at least not of this man (?!). Trained to kill, these dogs. I acted cool and nonchalant, but it must be said, I was more than just a little worried. I chose a path that led up, up and away from the crazy killer canines (of death).

Despite the dogs, Granada is great. In fact, I've enjoyed being here as much as I enjoyed being in Barcelona. Mental note (colon, can't find the colon) must come back to Granada...

...but not necessarily to Madrid. It was fine, nothing wrong with the place at all. I just didn't feel it had that much to offer me. I did happen to catch a massive rally on the street below my dorm room blacony - a rally for peace in Lebanon. Bless the Spanish and their passion. It made me ashamed to come from a country where the vast majority of the population are complacent, pampered brats (let's face it, eh?). This rally was such a celebration of peace - no tension, no hostility at all. There was music and dancing and applause and laughter without trivialising the issue at hand....Bless them, I say, bless them. It made me want to be Spanish.

I left Madrid quite willingly and headed for Cordoba where I stayed for two days, but soon realised I could've done it in one. The main attraction was the Mezquita (mosque), which has now long been a Catholic place of worship (blah), but still retains most of its Arabic architecture. The space inside is vast and is entirely comprised of a forest of arches and columns. It's wonderful. It made me think that Gaudi must surely have been inspired by Arabic architecture - inspiration drawn from nature, like so much Arabic architecture, the tile work...

Cordoba to Sevilla. Such a vibrant city. Everything stereotypically Spanish came from here - tapas (of which I've eaten waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too much during my time in Spain), flamenco, bullfighting.... I did a tour of the bullfighting stadium where I was convinced more than ever that bullfighting should be illegal)!!! I wont go on a rant but it should be illegal!!! Did I already say that bullfighting should be illegal!!!

I also went to a flamenco show - a paid one, so the standard was high. So high in fact that the female dancer held the national prize for flamenco dancing. It was very intimate - held in the courtyard of a traditional Spanish building with two rows of audience seated on three sides. It was honestly one of the most exciting things I've ever seen in my life. And so simple - one singer, one guitarist, two dancers. Their voices and amazing sense of internal rhythm. At times the male dancer's legs were moving so fast you couldn't even see them properly - they were a blur. I kid you not. I couldn't believe what I was seeing. Was this real? Indeed. No cinema screens here.

There's a long line of people waiting for this internet terminal (it's free! The internet is freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!), so I'm going to hop off now. Dinner is almost ready anyway. Yes, they cook massive veg dinners for everybody at this hostel, all for a mere three euros fifty. All the sangria you can drink. Dear lord.

I fly to London tomorrow morning. Yes, I'm finally making my way to the UK. I'm already cringing at the thought of all the ockers I'm bound to meet...